Thursday 12 August 2021

Meal 72. Gabonese buffet with cassava, plantain, fish, chicken and atanga fruit

Tanguy with the roast chicken

 As my own name alliterates, I immediately spotted Tanguy Tanga as a great name. Tanguy (pronounced the French way; Tahn-ghee) is a colleague from Gabon, a biologist who has worked following chimps and gorillas in the forest, and is now getting familiar with laboratory techniques in Berlin. He is very positive and normally up for doing fun stuff, so it was not too difficult to convince him to host a Gabonese meal. The original guest list was for four, but in a typical move, it has expanded to about ten after Tanguy was invited over to friends the day before and he invited them to join as well. Thankfully, he had basically done shopping and prepared enough food for about ten people anyway. So when I arrive, there is an impressive display of dishes on the kitchen table, and more in the oven. In total, I count ten different dishes, hence my decision to call this meal a buffet, rather than focus on a specific dish in the title.

All the dishes for the buffet prepped and ready to go

As I have lived in West Africa for a total of four years (in Sierra Leone and Ivory Coast), I do recognize a lot of the staples served (despite Gabon being a Central African country). There is boiled cassava root, boiled green plantain, fried ripe plantain, cassava leaf sauce with salted fish, aubergine sauce, fried fish, roasted chicken, french fries and a home-made cake for dessert. The main surprise is the atanga fruit. I initially mistake them for boiled dark skinned potatoes, thinking they look almost identical. Tanguy's German friend Til feels they look exactly like kidneys!

The atanga fruits; look like potatoes!

When you bite into them, you quickly encounter a big stone, so clearly it is neither a potato or a kidney. It is hard to describe the texture, a bit like an avocado, and the taste is quite tart and savoury. As a biologist, Tanguy can tell me the Latin name, Dacryodes edulis. Apparently the English name is African pear, though I've never heard of it! In Nigeria, this fruit is historically one of the primary food items that villages survive on during the “hungry season,” (the time in between harvests and plantings). I am amazed that Tanguy managed to find it for sale in Berlin. There are quite a few shops I have visited that have African food items for sale, but their selection of fruits and vegetables are normally a bit limited. The cassava leaf used in the sauce can be found relatively easily though, prechopped in frozen sachets. It is truly a staple in West and Central African cuisine, but it is a known issue that it is hard to accurately determine the salt level while it is cooking...it is quite easy to oversalt it. When this happens, people will joke that the cook must have been in love (and thus distracted) while seasoning the sauce!

Boiled cassava to left, plantain to right

Tanguy did learn to cook for himself back in Gabon, as he was away from his parents when he was sent to continue his education at a lycée (secondary school). He continued to profit from these skills at university, and would enjoy cooking for friends.


I am lucky to have snagged a host from Gabon, as it is quite a tiny country, with just over two million inhabitants. I had mainly heard of it because of its beautiful forests and national parks. It is one of the richest countries in Sub-Saharan Africa, partially due to having lots of oil, and mangenese. However, the benefits of these resources are not spread evenly, so you will still have quite a few poor people as well as some who are very well off. Tanguy specifically highlights that things are relatively expensive in Gabon, so even for people who earn a reasonable salary as a government functionary, it can be hard to afford things.
Crisp fried fish
He was able to compare this when he went to Cameroon, where they have the same currency (the Central African CFA franc). Still, most families in his city (Moanda, known for its manganese mines) will have a tv with Canal+ and a freezer or fridge. That is for instance a higher standard of living than I have seen in Ivory Coast or Sierra Leone. The so-called HDI (Human Development Index), is also one of the highest. On the other hand, some of the stories Tanguy tells me do sound familiar, such as it being difficult to get a job as a government functionary without paying a significant contribution first to someone higher up in the organisation.

Explaining the components to friend from Brasil
Of all the dishes, the aubergine sauce is the most praised by the guests (a varied bunch from Germany, Switzerland, Brazil and Burkina Faso). This sauce has a lovely silky consistency and a rich flavour. It is made with the smaller, rounder whitish aubergines rather than the well known dark purple elongated ones. Very good on rice too. After all the guests are stuffed, we end up watching some video clips from Gabonese musicians, including the internationally known Shan'L (pronounced Chanel) and Patience Dabany. The latter is more of classic artist, and was also the wife of Gabon's second president Omar Bongo, who holds a record as longest ruling leader (1967-2009). Not altogether surprisingly, Gabon's third president, Ali Bongo, is one of his ("30+") children, son of the the aforementioned Patience Dabany. More surprisingly, Ali Bongo is one of the few presidents who has put out a funk album (in 1977). It's not bad actually, very funky. Though Tanguy prefers Lord Ekomy Ndong, a socially conscious artist who has been critical of the highly contested elections in Gabon. 

We finish the meal with the tasty marble cake that Tanguy baked. He admits that it is not actually a Gabonese dish, he just wanted to make a nice dessert and found the recipe online. We are seriously impressed when it turns out to be the very first cake he has ever baked!

Dish with atanga, manioc, plantain, aubergine and cassava leaf sauces, chicken, fish and french fries!

Thursday 5 August 2021

Meal 71. Filipino lumpia and chicken adobo

Stirring the veg for the lumpia
I had recently been seeing a lot of Filipino recipes featured online by one of my favourite YouTubers Beryl, who cooks around the world with recipes she gets from followers around the world...a bit like my blog! It sounded like a very varied cuisine, with some familiar elements I recognise from Indonesian, American and Spanish food. So I felt very lucky to be contacted by Jo, who has been living and studying in Berlin for a few years and was enthusiastic about the idea of this blog. She is also a social entrepeneur and an artist who has set up up an NGO called SendToGive, inspired by the Filipino value of bayanihan (community spirit).

She greets me with a beautiful smile and has the ingredients for the starter prepped so I am able to see how they are prepared. For the main meal, chicken adobo, the chicken legs needed to be marinated in advance (in a mix of soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, garlic, bay leaves and black pepper kernels). So I can just enjoy the smell as this is bubbling away on the stove. Jo confides that she did ask for backup guidance from back home, to get inside tips about preparation.

Folded lumpias before frying
For the starter, we are having spring rolls, called lumpias. I recognise the name as in my childhood in Holland it was easy to find Vietnamese spring rolls for sale in food trucks selling lumpias (spelled loempias). I had no idea they were also popular in the Philippines - apparently also influenced by Chinese dishes and ingredients! However, it was tricky to find the proper lumpia ricepaper in Berlin. The one we used looked alright. After wetting down the paper to get it to soften, we filled it with the finely chopped vegetables, and folded it into rolls. They looked perfect frying in hot oil, but somehow decided to fuse with the paper towel (meant to soak up excess oil) on the plate...once removed, still very delicious. Served with a bit of homemade sweet-sour dipping sauce.
Frying up the lumpias

We chat about how one of the most important generators of income for the Philippines are their overseas workers (OFWs), who sent home $33B in 2020 alone. It helps that most Filipinos speak good English...as more than half of the OFWs are based in the US. Compared to some other countries who have a lot of overseas workers, it is more regulated in the Philippines, with training beforehand, and more efforts to make sure the OFWs are not abused and can return home if they need to. The first OFWs could be seen to be Filipino sailors on boats to Mexico in the 1500s. Jo does tell me about a more recent related development, where foreign companies employ Filipino workers in the Philippines (called BPOs, or Business Process Outsourcing), of which call centers would be the most familiar example.

The chicken adobo is served with rice and is tender and packed with flavour. At one point it becomes clear that Jo's father has a special love for poultry...but not to eat! He proudly breeds and keeps hundreds of beautiful fighting cocks, which participate in cockfighting (sabong) matches, a very popular spectator sport locally, maybe only second to basketball! Karaoke is also very popular, and Jo definitely enjoyed partaking with friends and at home...many families will have their own karaoke set.

Many of the most famous international celebrities with Filipino heritage are singers (Bruno Mars, Nicole Scherzinger, apl.de.ap from the Black Eyed Peas), though boxer Manny Pacquaio is maybe the best known Filipino national (who also likes singing and has even released a few albums!).

The crispy fried lumpias on the fateful paper towel

I would definitely like to try more of the Filipino dishes the country is known for (like pancit noodles), and after Jo tells me about travel options and shows me a few videos of jumping into a crystal clear blue ocean, I think the best way would be to actually travel to the country once corona subsides...in the meantime, I will visit one of the Filipino restaurants in Berlin!

Chicken adobo in foreground, lumpias in background